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I am know the new owner of a 6$ spoke wrench. I though I would try it out on the dr and klx. All was going well more or less. I would ping the spokes and try to get them to sound the same like everyone does. If a spoke was loose I would tighten it up. Several spokes were loose, but would not budge when I tried to adjust them. Then I would spray with w d 40 wait a little, hit them with a wrench to help vibrate the wd 40 in, then try to loosen them a touch. If I got them to back out a little I would re apply the wd 40 wait a little and tighten them up. This worked well until I got to the spoke from hell . It happens to be the only one that won't budge. I'm afraid to torque it any more for fear of breaking the spoke. Usually I would apply heat, but don't want to screw up the tube which is almost in direct contact with the spoke end.

Oh great and noble riders of this fine forum, what would you try?

David h

I know bicycle mechanics use thread lock on bike spoke nipples. I wouldn't be surprised if MC techs did the same.

A propane torch (not hot enough to do a lot of damage) directed at the nipple for a second or two might do the trick. Or aim it at the spoke just below the nipple.

Of course the nipple might melt a hole in the rim tape and tube ... but I doubt a few seconds would do that. Might want to let the air out of the tube to be safe.

Is it a torque wrench? I have seen these pre set at a certain poundage so one doest over tighten. I have tried the same thing as you with a 6mm wrench and had my whole wheel out of wack with a bad wobble. I have got it close to normal now but its still out of wack. Im going to have to take it to someone that knows more about it than me and put it on a machine to get it right. Becarefull on tinging the spokes. Ones going one direction will sound different than ones going the opposite direction.

Hayden

I would try several days with GOOD penetrating oil. It will come loose.

A couple of heating cycles like Mike Mentioned cannot hurt either.

I have found that if you are off the bike for a few weeks...give the tires a few good spins and it keeps this from happening. The one at the very bottom of the wheel will corrode up pretty bad because of the different alloys involved.

If it doesnt come loose with reasonable force, just leave it and get it out when you pull the tire off next time.

MoRidin wrote:...will corrode up pretty bad because of the different alloys involved.

All the more reason to use thread lock .. just stick with blue (medium strength) and not red (high strength) ... as the lock compound will somewhat seal the threads and keep moisture out, which is what allows the metals to react.