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Daryl Perry wrote:Photos or video of the procedure would be really cool for us who are mechanically challenged.

Edit: This topic split from "Ride" forum thread: http://www.rideforum.net/viewtopic.php?t=185

Next time I will try to remember to take photos. Pretty easy process. Only one special tool (seal driver) is needed.

Fork seal driver: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/too ... l_drivers/
Approximately $70.

Fork seal and fork dust cap needed too: Get these from your supplier.

I will post the information I have, and photos when I do this process again.

Ok, boys and girls, here is the document I found on the internet that I use to work on my forks. I have edited the original so that only the relevant parts are shown. I even annotated the document with comments.

http://home.everestkc.net/malsin/Motorc ... eplace.pdf

The document is for a WP inverted fork. I did the conventional (right-side-up) forks on my F650 using the same knowledge. Not much different.

Here is an F650 site that might help:
http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/ForksMaintFAQ.htm

To adjust oil level I use a syringe with a small brass tube (hobby shop) heated and melted into the tip of the syringe. I marked the tube with the air chamber length desired.

Another option: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=95468
Replace the plastic tube with a small pipe and you are set.

Or, this is my next purchase:
One of those meat injectors with the long needle.

Another item on oil level:To make the fork stiffer, decrease the air chamber (more oil); softer, increase the air chamber (less oil). The air chamber is part of your "spring".

That said, if you decrease the air chamber enough your fork will bottom out before it reaches the mechanical stop inside.

Conventional forks are nice for this b/c they often have a drain nipple on the lower fork leg. This allows you to get rid of some oil if you decide you added too much. You can add oil to the top on any fork. Just loosen the top triple fork clamp, remove the fork cap, and add a bit of oil. If you have a bleed screw or fork bleeders, remove them and use a syringe (with no needle) to add oil.

safiri wrote:To adjust oil level I use a syringe with a small brass tube (hobby shop) heated and melted into the tip of the syringe. I marked the tube with the air chamber length desired.

Another option: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=95468
Replace the plastic tube with a small pipe and you are set.

Or, this is my next purchase:
One of those meat injectors with the long needle.

Another item on oil level:To make the fork stiffer, decrease the air chamber (more oil); softer, increase the air chamber (less oil). The air chamber is part of your "spring".

That said, if you decrease the air chamber enough your fork will bottom out before it reaches the mechanical stop inside.

Conventional forks are nice for this b/c they often have a drain nipple on the lower fork leg. This allows you to get rid of some oil if you decide you added too much. You can add oil to the top on any fork. Just loosen the top triple fork clamp, remove the fork cap, and add a bit of oil. If you have a bleed screw or fork bleeders, remove them and use a syringe (with no needle) to add oil.

OUTSTANDING work!!!

Troy I see another section on RideForum: Safiri Mike's how to section!

I've heard there is a guy who has a series of videos that show you how to do mechanic work on your KTM. Probably makes some money off it.

A topic dedicated to bike maintenance and troubleshooting is probably a good idea. It's a balancing act keeping the forums organized topically and yet not have 100 forums. One problem with having forums too focused is a lot of people will post in the "wrong" forum. Then you get people harassing each other for it...next thing you know I'm a baby-sitter.

Speaking of baby-sitting.....I'm down to like 2 weeks...probably 3 tops!

A quick note about fork oil. Too much and you will blow your fork seals more often. Also I have been doing forks seals for myself and friends for a while and have only borrowed a seal driver once. I will take the old seal cut it in halves and use it and a deadblow hammer to drive in the new seal. A leather deadblow hammer works best and you have to be careful not to dent your fork tubes cause that would be costly. With practice its no big deal and takes only a few min. longer than having a seal driver. Anyway thats my $00.02.

As to seal driver ... a cheapo alternative is to get a small section of PVC (sewer, white or black) pipe approx the same size as the slider tube. Just a bit larger if possible. Probably 6" long. PVC fittings might work too depending on size.

If you have conventional forks, slide it down and drive your seal. You may need to cut it so that it can expand. One cut. OR...

If you have upside down forks, cut it into two halves (half circles) so that you can place it around the fork slider to drive the seal.

I agree that you can get by without a driver, but if you are going to keep a bike for a long time (and abuse it like a dirt bike) the seal driver is money well spent as it makes the job easier, faster, and less likely to ruin a seal or the fork tube.

Safiri, regarding the PVC trick...I heard somebody say they got the size pipe just large enough to fit over the tube. They cut 1 to 2 inch slots down from one end of the PVC pipe all the way around. Then they used a hose clamp on the sliced end. If you can picture what I'm describing, then you'll understand that you'd be able to then tighten the clamp to squeeze the diameter smaller to exactly fit what you need.

I've never done this, and frankly hope I never have to replace my own fork seals. I really hate mechanic work! This is good news for professional mechanics.

For some beer Troy.....Ill do it for ya


T

Hayden wrote:For some beer Troy.....Ill do it for ya


T

Hey I saw you on my home tonight near the Broadway Bridge holding a sign that said "I will work for beer"! I asked you if you wanted to mow my yard for a 12 pack and you gave me the finger... I guess I should have asked if you would change my fork oil.

Thanks Mike!