RideForum.NET

Hi,

Has anybody tried this brake lever to get a little less flex from the brake lever on their 690 ER?

http://www.cleanspeedeng.com/Brake%20Pedal.htm

Thanks,

MrHix

I of course welcome your post, Mike, but do realize that the RideForum community is relatively small. I think a total of 2 out of our 295 members own a KTM 690, and you are one of those 2.

Perhaps KTMTalk would be a better place to ask.

I must be the other 690 owner.
If they would put better brakes on the 690 the super strong lever wouldn't be needed.
I initially thought something was wrong with the rear brakes after new pads and a fluid flush decided they were weak or I was used to much better brakes.
I answer to your question No ,I hadn't noticed the lever flexing, I drive almost all gravel with it so it doesn't take so much pressure to slide the rear.

I know there may not be many other 690's here, but it seems like a good group.

I laid the bike down on the right bank of a ditch (almost stopped) and the lever twisted so the tip was pointing straight up. I bent it back, but I am looking for other options. I know that too much strength will probably break something else, but we'll see.

Cheers,

MrHix

MrHix wrote:I know there may not be many other 690's here, but it seems like a good group.

I laid the bike down on the right bank of a ditch (almost stopped) and the lever twisted so the tip was pointing straight up. I bent it back, but I am looking for other options. I know that too much strength will probably break something else, but we'll see.

Cheers,

MrHix

That's the trade off with Huskys and KTMs............. Nice light weight bikes that go like stink, but every part is machined to it's bare minimum for weight savings. You can add a toothpick for a kick stand to that list too. Parts are pretty stout on my WR, but it's a 295 pound Pig.

Bob Morgan wrote:

MrHix wrote:I know there may not be many other 690's here, but it seems like a good group.

I laid the bike down on the right bank of a ditch (almost stopped) and the lever twisted so the tip was pointing straight up. I bent it back, but I am looking for other options. I know that too much strength will probably break something else, but we'll see.

Cheers,

MrHix

That's the trade off with Huskys and KTMs............. Nice light weight bikes that go like stink, but every part is machined to it's bare minimum for weight savings. You can add a toothpick for a kick stand to that list too. Parts are pretty stout on my WR, but it's a 295 pound Pig.

My experience has been just the opposite. I drove Japanese bikes almost exclusively (84 husky the exception) all my life until I bought my first KTM in 05. Seems like parts were always bending or breaking on the Japanese bikes. I replaced or repaired more clutch perches, handle bars, bent sub frames, foot pegs, etc... than I can remember. Besides the crappy kick stand bolt my experience with KTM is they are much stronger.

I have not noticed any "flex" in mine, but I have heard that they break/bend easily when they smash into or get hung up on something.
My only complaint with the rear brake lever is that it's too high, and with dirt bike boots, it's very hard to use without lifting my foot off the peg.

3SuperSports wrote:
My only complaint with the rear brake lever is that it's too high, and with dirt bike boots, it's very hard to use without lifting my foot off the peg.

I too have the same problem. Have you heard of any fix for this problem?

First, I don't own or have access to a 690.

I would rather have the brake (or shift) lever bend than break and would rather have the lever break than break the mounting tab or bolt to the frame. Years ago I replaced the cast shift lever on my LC4 as it bent in a hard fall in Moab and I was afraid to put much more force on it to straighten it as I figured it would break and leave me with one gear to get out of the mess I was in, which would be worse. Rode with that bent lever for the week. Same for the stock shift lever on my F650. On the F650 I bought a steel shift lever that I can bend without a lot of force being applied. If you get that fancy brake lever, invest in an extra bolt to carry with.

The brake lever should be adjustable for height. That set screw on top of the lever adjusts the height of the lever, but you also have to adjust the push rod that goes into the master cylinder. I like 1-2 mm of up/down slop at the tip of the lever ... when you push down on the lever with your hand you will feel when the push rod engages the plunger and starts to apply pressure. The OM should show how, or the parts fiche should show the parts. Parts 14 and 15:

2010 does not look adjustable in the diagram:


2012 does look adjustable (loosen the nut, turn the push rod):


The bearings in the newer lever are shown in the fiche to be GROOVED BALL BEAR. 608 2RS C3. That is a skate (roller or board) bearing as its universal part number is 608-2RS. Much cheaper at a sporting good store or online.

bird man wrote:

3SuperSports wrote:
My only complaint with the rear brake lever is that it's too high, and with dirt bike boots, it's very hard to use without lifting my foot off the peg.

I too have the same problem. Have you heard of any fix for this problem?

No, not yet. Mine's an '08 and doesn't appear to have any adjustment for the angle of the lever. The manual's instructions seem to indicate that it does, but only to adjust the push rod, not the lever itself. This is something I should be looking into with all the winter "downtime" that I have.

Mine is an 08 also and I have adjusted it all I can figure out how to and it still isn't enough. I have been thinking of having it cut in to and rewelded at an angle more to my liking. But first I will study the manual and bike a little more. Maybe even some more on line research.
Safiri how is the push rod going in to the master cylinder adjusted? As I remember mine has no threaded adjusting to it on that part. On the diagram posted it appears (part 14 and 15) have a threaded adjuster ,which my 08 doesn't have.

I wonder if the adjustable rod from the '12 would fit on the earlier year models. If so, you guys could just order one of those to replace the non-adjustable parts on yours. It seems KTM is pretty good about using the same parts across different model ranges and years, so I wouldn't be surprised if that would work.

Parts diagrams: http://173.74.246.25/cyclezone/

Looking at the 2008 690 Replica (the only 690 listed), the push rod is shown as being adjustable BUT no longer available AND no superceding part number. 2010 it looks non adjustable. 2012 adjustable. Go figure. 2008 has a ball bearing pivot, 2010 bushing, 2012 ball.

For fitment, see if the caliper and lever will transfer over.

How to adjust: loosen lock nut (#18) on push rod (#17), turn push rod (you pick the direction), tighten lock nut.

For 2008: