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I understand there can be issues with the clutch baskets on KTM wearing on the splines creating a clattering sound. Anyone had this experience? I trying to figure out how much of the clutch assembly I need to replace to fix the problem.

Replacing the inner and out baskets is big time $$ on a KTM.

I haven't had any luck finding a after market supplier for my 2002 EXC 400.

By "splines" do you mean the fingers on the outer edge of the basket that hold the clutch plates or the splines that lock it rotationally to the transmission shaft?

If the fingers are slightly grooved from the clutch metal plates, you can file them down. I had this on my LC4 ... at 14,000 miles. The symptom was being very hard to shift into neutral unless moving or with the motor off. (BTW, nobody I know can easily shift their RFS into neutral while stopped.)

My 02 RFS has 200+ hours on it and I don't have this problem.

If the clutch is chattering, I wonder if you don't need new frictions? Perhaps new metals as well?

My 99 DR350 got to the point it was terribly difficult to get into neutral and was hard to shift in and out of any gear. I performed an operation that some have called "clearance the clutch basket". That does not exactly roll off the tongue, but it is what Safiri describes. I pulled the clutch plates out, then removed the "basket"--the round metal thing with the "fingers" that hold the plates. I then used an emory cloth on a grinder to gently smooth out the grooves that had worn inside the fingers. This solved the problem nicely, but I figure it's something you can do once or maybe twice and then when things wear again, you ought to buy a new basket.

Note that I am not a mechanic, but I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night.

Bike is shifting fine (1-6, shut it down to find neutral). I get slightly less noise when I pull the clutch in so I figure the clutch is involved. If it's a problem with the plates, it's a reasonably priced repair. If it's the baskets, well, about $250 each. Just trying to get an idea what type of repair I might be looking at before take it apart. It does make sense that if the plates were worn down, they would cause rattling when the bike is in neutral idling.

Trying to see if anyone has had the same symptoms and what they found. The noise is definitely coming from the clutch side case.

Price an after market clutch kit (Frictions and Steels) as well as just frictions. Mike at CycleZone told me these rarely need steels, just frictions.

As to noise ... it's a KTM. They make lots of noise. Remember that all six gears are constantly turning and thus making noises on the two shafts they spin on. Noise should lessen when you pull in the clutch. The 02 has steel rods that lock the steels to the inner hub. These will rattle, too. (In an earlier post I wrote wrong: the frictions have tabs that lock with the outer basket)

I am leaning torward a diagnosis of normal KTM transmission and clutch rattling. Turn up the idle and you won't hear it anymore. Serious, on both.

Mike - Saw your earlier post about the idle. Sounded like a good idea, get alot of the see-saw affect at low speed right now. I'll try the idle first, if that doesn't make a difference, I'll replace plates.

I would only replace the plates if they were worn beyond the service limits. KTM clutches and transmissions are noisy. Just the way they are. Nothing wrong with that, BTW. Mike at Cycle Zone is correct. KTM clutches last and only the friction plates need replacement, but check them first. They might be OK.

I have learned how to find neutral on my 525 RFS when stopped. It takes finesse. Once figured out it is fairly easy to find it.

There are RFS engines, 450 and 525, with over 40,000 miles on them with DS riding that have never been opened up. They have been maintained (oil, valve clearance, etc.) and short shifted. If you peg the engine trying to outrun your buddies then you might need more in the way of parts, otherwise probably not.

Stu

First - I agree with all in that KTM has the loudest clutches of any bike maker...and brakes too (the KTM woods horn).

If you run an aluminum skidplate, it makes it even worse...and really makes it louder than it is. I noticed that running the plastic skidplate made the bike quite a bit more comfy to the ear.

As for neutral...have you played around with different oils? I have noticed that KTMs of all flavors react very different to lubrication even on same model bikes. My 200 is impossible to find neutral with gear oil...but works great with ATF int he tranny (and that is what I run). I have always ran Rotella in my RFS bikes with good results...but there are times that neutral is tough to find (unless you are ona big hill hanging off the side of a mountain...then it seems to fall into neutral quite easily.

If you want to replace the basket, check Rocky Mountain as there are some good aftermarket that should be cheaper than OEM. I broke and inner hub once trying to get the clutch hub nut off...so I know those are like $90 alone...I bet KTM gets three bills for the basket!

I did some bike maintenance yesterday and finished by taking the bike for a test ride. Yes, the clutch is noisy. Very noisy. Always been that way. Lots of rattling. Think box of rocks and bolts and nuts getting shaken around. When I pulled in the clutch lever, the noise diminished quite a bit.

IIRC, the symptoms of a grooved basket on my LC4 was that I couldn't shift at all (not just neutral) when stopped unless I stomped on the shift lever.

If your clutch isn't slipping then I wouldn't mess with it. If you are concerned about the clutch going out here are two suggestions:
1. buy a set of frictions and leave those with your car or trailer if on a base camp ride.
2. buy a 1mm steel and figure out some place to safely store this on the bike or in your luggage. If the clutch starts to slip, put in the steel as an extra (so two frictions would be separated by two steels ... kind of a double Oreo). The only place i can think of on the bike is in the air filter housing, but I haven't tried to fit it.


Mac, off-topic but something I noticed on my 02 yesterday that you might want to investigate: Both rads were rubbing against the Y at the bottom of the downtube / front frame rail. Rubbing on the lower rad reservoir. I will order up some new rubber frame mount dampers / spacers, but my temp fix was to fasion some spacers out of Al flashing. Put this between the rubber and the frame nub. These spacers are approx 3/4 the circumference and are aligned at the bottom to pull the rad back and up (center of spacer at 10 o clock) and at the top to pull the rad forward and up (center of spacer at 2 o clock). The net result is pulling the rads up and tilting them. That gave me some clearance btw the rad and frame Y.

There are RFS engines, 450 and 525, with over 40,000 miles on them with DS riding that have never been opened up. They have been maintained (oil, valve clearance, etc.) and short shifted. If you peg the engine trying to outrun your buddies then you might need more in the way of parts, otherwise probably not.

Wow, KTM must use that exotic Kryptonite alloy, and be blessed three times by the Dahli Llama!

Just joking, I understand brand loyalty.... How else do you explain Harley Davidson who proved "Failure is an option".

Most bikes can have lasting durability, it's more dependent on the use and maintenence than the brand name. I figure the RFS bikes were never intended to be a moped and usually see some pretty hard use.

I'm the third owner of my bike and the use and maintenance have to questioned. Just hoping this bike got an extra layer of Kryptonite and FOUR blessings by Mr. Llama.